Sunday, April 1, 2007

The Old Man and The Sea...

this was the last day of our trip... Ali and Julio agreed to take us fishing, down on the Maleçon, where the rest of the Cubans fished.

So we met with them at Ali's house

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Then we went out, Julio went to get fishing lines and we ran into a bit of trouble. Ali was walking along with Jena and they were so cute I took out my camera and snapped this picture:

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No sooner did I take the picture then the Police came running up and arrested Ali for consorting with a white woman, a tourist. He was immediately targeted as a Jintero, a hustler, and since there is a sort of institutionalized apartheid in Cuba, this is a jailable offense.

We protested, and offered to help, but he told us no and walked away with the police, obviously embarrassed and I would guess, scared.

Right after that, Julio came around the corner and told us to wait... he ran around the corner and between the two of them, they were able to work it out and Ali was released.

The rest of the walk to get our hooks and bait, though, Ali had to walk about a block ahead of us for fear of being arrested again. It was sad and angering and we felt helpless. It sucked. If you look in this picture, you'll see Ali.

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Anyway, the moods picked up as we got our gear together... We walked down the Maleçon to get bait, past the old Spanish castle and some guys playing bob marley.

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We went and got bait, which are like these long, nasty millipedes they sell. They live in these roots, and you squeeze them out from one end to the other, then shove the hook in their mouth and basically impale them on the hook. The fishies love 'em.

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We threw our first casts as the sun set over Habana. Awesome.

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And Jena caught the first fish. Goddamn beginners luck.

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She wanted to throw it back but Ali and Julio protested. They'll eat that shit. It's no joke in Cuba.

I went and bought a bottle of Havana Club Rum, a couple cokes and stole some cups from some other touristas and we got our fish on and our drink on...

Julio caught the next fish, almost just as small, but still a keeper. Look at Julio and Ali, I love these guys...

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The thing that sucks about being the photographer is that you're never in the pictures... oh well. Still so awesome.

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After that, we climbed down on the rocks into the crashing surf and fished from there, catching more baby fishies and having an all around rad time. Julio is hilarious.

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When it was all over, we walked Ali home, where he jumped in on a cut throat game of Dominoes with some people outside his house...

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We walked home, but then I had to run back to give him his house key. I left Jena with a bunch of locals who were grubbing on some late night spaghetti - we ordered her some with tomatoe sauce, ham and cheese.

When I got back, I saw this:

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Jena, making friends wherever she goes...

The next day we left for the airport. I have no pictures of that because all my memory cards were full, but I will tell you this:

We had no money to pay our airport tax so Jena had to standby patiently while I made this announcement to a line of Canadian tourists:

"EXCUSE ME!! I AM AN AMERICAN, AND I HAVE NO MONEY TO PAY AIRPORT TAX. BECAUSE MY GOVERNMENT IS RUN BY IDIOTS, I CANNOT USE A BANK, ATM, CHECK OR CREDIT CARD TO GET MONEY... CAN ANYONE PLEASE LOAN ME 50 DOLLARS SO I CAN GET HOME???"

a kind woman generously loaned me the money I needed, allowing us to get through customs and sprint to catch our plane.

I sent her a check the day I got home. The memo line on the check?

"FOR: being awesome. thanks."